No Spray List


Apiarists have several options to reduce the chances of pesticides being sprayed near their hives.


Below are a few options to reduce spraying around your hives.


1) Crop spraying - Register on the Ohio Department of Agriculture website to be put on the Ohio Sensitive Crop Registry (OSCR).

More information can be found at


2) Mosquito spraying - Each year many counties travel the streets of their county spraying in an effort to reduce mosquito populations.


To be placed on the list so that they turn their sprayers off as they approach your hives you can contact the Summit County Health Department at (330) 926-5668



You don’t have to be a beekeeper to help improve the current crisis in honeybee and native bee population declines. If you have a yard, a rooftop garden or community garden, the choices you make in your plantings of trees, shrubs and flowers can support the wellbeing of bees as well as other beneficial insects that keep our world a vibrant, healthy place. And, if you are a fruit/vegetable gardener, attracting honeybees to your garden will help the productivity of your plants through the pollination service they provide.

     Plan your garden to provide pollen and nectar sources over the entire growing year. Keep in mind that even on a warmish, late winter day honeybees need pollen sources to feed their young brood in the hive. The largest early

pollen sources are Acer maples, willows, winterhazels and witchhazels. Do your best to plant forage for this purpose in relative proximity to your hives, although bees don’t generally forage closer than twenty feet from hive.

It is best to plant in masses, as single plants may not attract honeybees, since they visit only one plant type per

foraging trip. Honeybee friendly flowering bushes and trees are a great value in your landscape. Also, single

blossoms tend to be easier for honeybees to access than double blossom types. Deep-throated blossoms may attract bumblebees and hummingbirds, however a honeybee’s proboscis (straw-like tongue) is not as long, and they visit flowers better suited to them.

     Bees are attracted to flowers that are colorful, contrast well with their background, or have an ultraviolet coloration that serves as a nectar guide. This is especially true in the case of red flowers, which bees don't see unless they contain some ultraviolet light, which we usually don't see. Purple and blue are bees' favorite colors, followed by yellow and orange. Many newer cultivars of flowers, especially annuals that have been highly bred, are deceptive to bees. Even though they may have attractive colors, many hybrid plants lack the pollen and nectar bees need, if these traits have been bred out of the plants. This can be seen in pollen-less sunflowers meant for cutting.

     This is by no means a comprehensive list, and one of the many joys in the combination of honeybees and gardens is watching their activity among your plants, and of course the seemingly miraculous experience of savoring the taste of your own garden in the honey.



Late Winter - Early Spring

Acer Maple

Winterhazel (Corylopsis spicata)


Hazel Alder (Alnus serrulata, Alnus rugosa)

Salix - Willows (choose willows with the biggest catkins)


Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn' and 'Charles Lamont'

Flowering Quince (Chaenomeles speciosa) - Chaenomeles japonica 'Cameo'


Flowering fruit trees and berry bushes (many are low on nectar and protein pollen, so plan/allow for diversity in forage)

Early – Mid Summer

Basswood - Linden

Black Locust

European Chestnut

Yellow or Tulip Poplar

Catalpa (Indian Bean Tree)

Densa Inkberry, Ilex glabra ‘Densa’ (plant instead of Boxwood for evergreen shrub)

Enkianthus campanulatus - Nichols

Sweet pepperbush (Clethra spp.)


Sourwood Tree (Oxydendrum arboreum) Only to zone 5

Golden Rain Tree (Koelreuteria paniculata) Only to zone 5

Late Summer

Beebee Tree, Korean Evodia (Tetradium glabrifolium)

Japanese Pagoda Tree



Late Winter - Early Spring



Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa)


Leopard's Bane (Doronicum)


Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium caeruleum)

Bleeding Heart


Basket-of-Gold (Aurinia saxatilis)

Oriental Poppy (Papaver orientale)

Early – Mid Summer

Mountain Bluet (Centaurea montana)


Sage and Salvias


Catnip (Nepeta)



White Clover

Globe Thistle

Scented Geranium

Late Summer


Joe-Pye Weed

Coneflower (Echinecea)

Sunflower (choose heirloom varieties, not fancy pollen-less varieties)

Purple Loosestrife

Flowering Herbs, including oregano and rosemary – (hold basil for autumn bloom.)

Anise Hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) - (choose the columnar types not those with deep throats – “Giant Hyssop”)

Borage (draws honeybees into vegetable garden)

Boltonia asteroids


Perovskia (Russian Sage)

Golden Rod

Garlic Chives

Blue Mist Spirea


Asters (October Glory or Octendgloren are very late blooming)

Sedums (Autumn Joy is wonderful)

Dendranthemum (Hardy Chrysanthemum “Sheffield”)

Sweet Autumn Clematis - vine

Autumn blooming Crocus (simple variety)

Almost anytime

Buckwheat (grows fast, good to enrich soil as green manure. Turn under just after flowering– fragile with frost)

Heathers and Heaths (There are winter blooming varieties, as well as thru the normal season)

Densa Inkberry, Ilex glabra ‘Densa’ (Please considering planting these evergreen bushes instead of boxwood)

Compiled by Grai St. Clair Rice,

HoneybeeLives teaches Organic Beekeeping and provides apiary services with Bee Doctor Chris Harp and G


Here are some other places for good information...

This is a commercial site but the list of flowers is very good



There are very good zone specific brochures available here:


For a copy of this brochure, or for another region, visit

The Pollinator Partnership™/North American Pollinator Protection Campaign

423 Washington St., 5th Floor, San Francisco, CA 94111 – 415-362-1137


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